Knitting 101 - Part 3: Binding Off

This series is designed to help you learn the basics of knitting technique in a way that will smoothly transition your skills to future projects. To best use this guide, don’t try to make anything meaningful at first. Spend at least an hour making a few oddly-shaped bits of knitting about 10-12 stitches wide and 10 rows high (I call them gerbil coasters) before you dive into a real project. The key to even-looking knitting is developing muscle memory in your hands, so practice each technique several times until you get the hang of it. Remember that this is supposed to be fun, so if you’re feeling frustrated, take a break and come back to it later.

When you feel comfortable with the techniques in the series, I’ve designed a pattern, The Itty Bitty Knitty Kitty, specifically for brand new knitters. The Kitty is designed to be made up of several small parts, so if you don’t like the way a piece is looking, there’s no harm in tossing it aside and starting again.

More of a print than screen reader? The complete series (including the Itty Bitty Kitty Pattern) is available as a PDF, printed booklet, and complete kit to get you started off with high quality materials.

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Binding-Off

Binding-off secures the end of your knitting so it won’t unravel. Just as there are many cast-ons, there are many bind-offs, some more stretchy than others. Here, I’ll show you a basic bind-off that provides a firm edge.

1. Bind Off the First Stitch

At the start of a row, (a) knit two stitches as normal. On the RH needle, (b) pull the rightmost stitch up and over the other stitch, (c) dropping it off the needle. You should now have one stitch on the RH needle.

2. Continue to Bind Off

Continue as in Step 1: knit one stitch, pull the rightmost stitch on the RH needle up and over the new stitch. You should still have only one stitch on the RH needle. Repeat until there is one stitch on the RH needle and no more stitches to bind off on the left.

3. Secure the Bind Off

(a) Enlarge the final loop slightly and remove from the needle. Cut or break the yarn leaving at least a 6” tail (more if you intend to seam with it). (b) Pull the tail through the final stitch and (c-e) pull tight to secure. If not using the tail to seam, use a tapestry or darning needle to hide the tail on the back side of your knitted fabric. (For a helpful tutorial on various methods for weaving in ends visit https://www.purlsoho.com/create/weaving-in-your-ends/)

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With your knowledge of casting on, the knit stitch, and binding off (plus a little bit of seaming) you could make an endless number of square or rectangular objects from coasters and cowls, to scarves and ponchos. I’ve designed a simple, fingerless glove pattern to put your new skills to use!

Continue on to Part IV - Beginner’s Mitts (COMING SOON)>>>

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sale

Knitting 101 & Itty Bitty Knitty Kitty

Sale Price:$8.00 Original Price:$12.00

Itty Bitty Knitty Kitty - PDF Pattern

$3.00

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Knitting 101 - Part 2: The Knit Stitch (Continental Style)

This series is designed to help you learn the basics of knitting technique in a way that will smoothly transition your skills to future projects. To best use this guide, don’t try to make anything meaningful at first. Spend at least an hour making a few oddly-shaped bits of knitting about 10-12 stitches wide and 10 rows high (I call them gerbil coasters) before you dive into a real project. The key to even-looking knitting is developing muscle memory in your hands, so practice each technique several times until you get the hang of it. Remember that this is supposed to be fun, so if you’re feeling frustrated, take a break and come back to it later.

When you feel comfortable with the techniques in the series, I’ve designed a pattern, The Itty Bitty Knitty Kitty, specifically for brand new knitters. The Kitty is designed to be made up of several small parts, so if you don’t like the way a piece is looking, there’s no harm in tossing it aside and starting again.

More of a print than screen reader? The complete series (including the Itty Bitty Kitty Pattern) is available as a PDF, printed booklet, and complete kit to get you started off with high quality materials.

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The stitch from which knitting gets its name, the knit stitch (combined with the purl stitch) is the basis of all knitting. For now, we will focus on the knit stitch only. Something that is worked with all rows knitted (where the back and front look the same) is called Garter Stitch. There are two main styles of knitting Continental Style/“Picking” or English Style/”Throwing.” Both work equally well. I’ll be showing Continental Style because that’s how I knit (I also think knitting Continental makes it easier to keep an even gauge, and is more efficient and ergonomic, but that’s just my opinion).

1. Tension the Yarn

Make sure you have about 1 yard of yarn pulled out between the cast-on needle and the ball. (a) At about a hand’s width away from the needle, drape the end of the working yarn (the strand closest to the ball) over the pinky finger of your left hand with your palm up. (b) Flip your palm down so the yarn forms a loop around your pinkie and (c) scoop up the strand near the needle with your index finger so it rests on the back on the finger. (d) Pick up your cast-on needle with the thumb, middle, and ring finger of your left hand and adjust yarn around your fingers so it is slightly taut as it runs from needle to index finger to pinkie. The yarn should be BEHIND the left hand needle. Pick up the empty needle in your right hand.

2. Form a Knit Stitch

(a) Insert the tip of your right-hand (RH) needle into the front (from palm to fingertip) of the loop closest to the end of the left-hand (LH) needle. (b) Slide the tip of the RH needle out past the yarn strand running over your left index finger, then scoop the RH needle tip toward your palm, “picking" up the yarn strand and (c) pull it through that first loop. You should now have a new loop on the RH needle. (d) Using your right index finger to push the LH needle down, (e) slide the old loop off the LH needle and let it drop. You’ve just knit your first stitch!!

Repeat Step 2 until you’ve worked all the stitches on your LH needle. Move the empty needle to your RH and the full needle to your LH and keep going!

NB: To count the number of rows you have worked in Garter Stitch, look at the front of your work (the tail from the cast on will be on the RH bottom edge). Each row of “bumps” or Garter ridges (above the cast on edge) equals two rows knitted. In Figure 2f, there are 6 rows knitted

Continue on to Part III: Binding-Off >>>

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sale

Knitting 101 & Itty Bitty Knitty Kitty

Sale Price:$8.00 Original Price:$12.00

Itty Bitty Knitty Kitty - PDF Pattern

$3.00

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Knitting 101 - Part I: Casting On (Long Tail)

This series is designed to help you learn the basics of knitting technique in a way that will smoothly transition your skills to future projects. To best use this guide, don’t try to make anything meaningful at first. Spend at least an hour making a few oddly-shaped bits of knitting about 10-12 stitches wide and 10 rows high (I call them gerbil coasters) before you dive into a real project. The key to even-looking knitting is developing muscle memory in your hands, so practice each technique several times until you get the hang of it. Remember that this is supposed to be fun, so if you’re feeling frustrated, take a break and come back to it later.

When you feel comfortable with the techniques in the series, I’ve designed a pattern, The Itty Bitty Knitty Kitty, specifically for brand new knitters. The Kitty is designed to be made up of several small parts, so if you don’t like the way a piece is looking, there’s no harm in tossing it aside and starting again.

More of a print than screen reader? The complete series (including the Itty Bitty Kitty Pattern) is available as a PDF, printed booklet, and complete kit to get you started off with high quality materials.

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Materials

To start with, I suggest the following materials:

• US Size 5 or 7 (3.75 mm or 4.5 mm) straight (single point) knitting needles in wood, bamboo, or metal.

  • Wood and bamboo are the most “grippy”

  • Metal is more slippery, but solid

  • I do not recommend plastic, as it has a tendency to bow.

• A Worsted Weight Yarn in 100% Wool

  • Wool yarn is the most forgiving to work with at first. Some inexpensive options for 100% wool yarns are available from Brown Sheep, Lion’s Brand and Quince & Co. in the US. My personal preference is for Brown Sheep Nature spun Worsted, which is used in these photos.

  • Avoid cotton (it’s inelastic) and any hairy Angora/Alpaca/Mohair) or specialty yarns (hard to see stitches).

  • A wool/acrylic blend is preferable to straight acrylic, but either will work.

• Want to save yourself a shopping trip? Pick up my Knitting 101 Kit!

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The Long Tail Cast On

1. Estimate the “Long Tail” length

As the name indicates, you’ll need a long tail of yarn to work this cast-on. To estimate of the length of the tail, estimate 1-2” of tail for each cast-on stitch (the bigger the needles, the longer the tail). Over time you’ll get better at guessing the tail length. Better to have too long of a tail, which you can cut, than too short a one.

2. Form a Slip Knot

(a) Fold the yarn in half, forming the top of a loop, so the tail (the half of the loop that is not attached to the ball/skein of yarn) is the length you estimated in step one. (b) Wrap the tail around the folded yarn, and then (c) pull the tail through the loop you just made, forming a slip knot. (d) Pull on the tail, until the loop closes to a size slightly larger than your needle.

3. Insert your Needle into the Slip Knot

(a) Insert the tip of your needle into the slip knot and (b) pull until the loop is snug, but not tight.

4. Tension Yarn in Your Left Hand

(a) With the needle above your left hand, pinch the tail and the yarn attached to the ball (the working yarn) with the pinkie/ring/middle fingers of your left hand so they are lying parallel to one another, with the tail on the right side. (b) Slide your thumb and index finger in between the two strands (above your middle finger and below the needle), forming a diamond shape. The working yarn should be behind your index finger and the tail should be behind your thumb. (c) Pull the needle down toward your palm, forming a loop around your thumb.

5. Cast on a Stitch

Keeping your thumb and pointer finger in a firm “L” shape, (a) insert the tip of the needle into the bottom of the loop on your thumb, going from palm to fingers, then (b) coming from fingers to palm, scoop up the strand on your index finger and (c) pull it through the loop on your thumb. (d) Drop the thumb loop over the edge of the needle and (e) pull to secure – again, going for snug, not tight. You have now cast on one new stitch.

Repeat Step 5 until you have the desired number of stitches cast on. When counting stitches, include the initial loop you made with the slip knot. There are 10 stitches in Fig. 5f.

Continue on to Part II: The Knit Stitch: Continental Style >>>

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sale

Knitting 101 & Itty Bitty Knitty Kitty

Sale Price:$8.00 Original Price:$12.00

Itty Bitty Knitty Kitty - PDF Pattern

$3.00

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Maine Handmade Fair

Virtual Maine Handmade Fair Tomorrow!

December 05, 2019

I’m co-hosting a virtual craft fair featuring 22 talented Maine makers. Friday, December 6th starting at 10 am we'll be sharing our handmade work, as well as some special discounts, peeks inside of our workspaces, and creative processes. We are a group of 22 different artists and artisans representing a wide range of handmade products and processes and different areas of Maine's creative community. 

What's a Virtual Handmade Fair?

It's a group of artists and makers getting together to share their work - just like a regular craft fair. Instead of meeting up in person, we're meeting up online and inviting you to join us on Friday, December 6th, starting at 10 AM to say hello, see our handmade work, and find some special discounts on handmade holiday gifts. We think it'll be a fun way to see new work, meet new makers, support and create connections within this creative community.

Organized by Eliza Jane Curtis of Morris & Essex and Leah B. Thibault of Ms. Cleaver - Creations for a Handmade Life, this event includes 22 Maine makers: 

• @Sperrygeneralstore Cards, shirts, dresses, onesies

• @beedandy_shop Bath & body products

• @earthangelarts hand stitched ornaments and pillows, paintings, printed products

• @Nailitartxo String art

• @Morrisandessex Hand-printed textiles and letterpress cards

• @sehallfurnituredesign Woodworking and Furniture

• @gdixon03 Jewelry for men and women

• @creationlabshop Water-Based, Hand Printed Apparel & Accessories

• @mermaidmeadow Illustrative artwork on barnwood, fabric and paper.

• @SarahCrawfordJewelry Jewelry

• @WildwoodOysterCo Handbags

• @annealexandersculptor nature-inspired sculpture, mostly in ceramics

• @thinkgreene Textile Designer and Screen Printer

• @APCuriosities Ceramics (animal bowls, travel cups, etc) and jewelry

• @DMGDesignsMaine Jewelry & metal wares

• @searosestudios Textiles, woodburning

• @lanaplantae Naturally Dyed Yarns

• @holmesandhudson Natural Skincare

• @Jamiepeaks Art prints & Children’s books

• @jeffreyliptonpottery Pottery

• @McFlyandCo Dog Collar Accessories

• @MsCleaver Embroidery/Knitting Kits

Please join us tomorrow morning, RIGHT HERE on Instagram, starting at 10 am we'll be sharing our handmade work together, as well as some special discounts, peeks at our studio and creative process, maybe some live video greetings, we'll see - each artist gets to choose what they want to share, so it'll be a bit of a surprise, and I think it'll be fun! Can't wait to see you there.

Knitting Vertical Pleats and Pintucks

It’s no secret that I learned to sew long before I learned to knit, and I still love them both, but while sewing is essentially the art of taking a flat piece of fabric and manipulating it into a 3-D structure, the magic of knitting is that you can work that structure into the very fabric itself.

The simplest example of this is knitting in the round - rather than knitting a flat piece and seaming it into a tube, you just make the tube to begin with. Similarly, increases, decreases, and short rows can be used to form curves and undulations. I love designing my stuffed animals in the round, because it forces me to think in three dimensions from stitch one. But when it comes to garments, I’ll admit to finding a bit of a thrill in translating traditional sewing techniques, like pleats and pintucks into knitted forms.

Just like with sewing, working a knitted pleat involves securing folds in the fabric. To work a horizontal pleat, like in my Bob & Wave Cowl (see bottom of post), you pick up and knit a stitch from several rows down together with every active stitch. The vertical pleat, as used to shape the hands of the Turning Leaf gloves, is worked across two rows and is a tad more involved, so I’ll walk you through the process step by step.

Here I use the the term “tuck” to cover pintucks (which are very narrow tucks) and any other vertical pleat.

The Turning Leaf Gloves (used as an example here) have a series of three tucks across the back of the hand. The tucks start at three stitches wide near the wrist, and then decrease to a two-stitch tuck, and then one-stitch tuck just below the fingers.

I’ll be showing the three-stitch tuck throughout, but the same technique can be applied to a tuck of any width. A tuck with more stitches being folded will be more visible and decrease more fabric.

In the image above, I’ve already worked four rows of the three-stitch tuck pattern. You can see the three tucks, and the four recessed “channels” that fall on the sides of the tuck. Worked over two rows, the tucks are formed by slipping the tuck stitches on every other row and pulling the working yarn very tightly across the back, which pulls the stitches on either side of the tuck closer together, essentially folding them and holding the fold together.

ROW 1

1. Knit to the start of your first tuck.

2. Slip the tuck stitches (here, three stitches) on to a spare double-pointed needle or cable needle held in front of your work. [NB: if your tucks are small, you can use the same spare needle for all the tucks in a row]

3. Tension the working yarn tightly as you work the first stitch post-tuck. The more snugly you work the stitches together on either side of the tuck, the more visible your tuck will be. Continue knitting normally until you reach the next tuck.

Repeat steps 2 and 3 until you reach the end of the tuck section.

In the example shown, the tuck section is 11 stitches wide: three tucks three stitches wide, plus one spacer stitch on either side of the center tuck. When you finish working your first row of tucks, you should have nine stitches (width of tuck x number of tucks) on your spare needle (or needles, if your tuck is very wide).

ROW 2

1. Knit to the start of your first tuck.

2. Pick up and knit the tuck stitches (here, three stitches) off the spare needle.

3. Knit normally to the next tuck.

Repeat steps 2 and 3 until all stitches are back on the main needle.

It will take a couple of rows until the tucks start to look like anything on the right side of the fabric. On the wrong side of the fabric, you should clearly see where the working yarn has held behind the slipped stitches. Try to keep that horizontal line the same length for tucks of the same width, and the short it is, the more prominent your tucks will be.

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GET KNITTING!

Try out the pattern below which incorporate tucks, horizontal pleats, or smocking!

Turning Leaf Gloves - PDF Pattern

$6.00

Bob & Wave Cowl – PDF Pattern

$6.00

Smocked Tank - PDF Pattern

$0.00

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Indie Design Gift Along 2018 - My 24 Top Picks

It's Gift-Along Time again! 

Every year a growing group of independent knitwear designs band together on Ravelry to host a knit-along to kick start your holiday gift knitting! 

This year there are 349 designers from 30 countries and 6 continents, with over 20,000 patterns eligible for the giftalong's 2,000+ prizes.

From now until midnight EST on Nov 29, over 6,000 of those patterns are 25% off with the code giftalong2018

But 6,000 patterns is a lot to look through, so I thought I’d highlight some of my personal favorites from the offerings -and hopefully introduce you to some wonderful new-to-you designers..

Clicking on any photo above will take you to a Ravelry bundle of my favorites where you can peruse and purchase any of the designs. (Note: not all patterns shown are on sale, but all are eligible for the KAL and prizes in the gift-along).

I've got 18 patterns in the sale,  specifically chosen for their gift-ability.  Not on Ravelry? The same patterns on MsCleaver.com are also 25% off for the same time/same code.

Happy gifting!!

Pattern Links

(all attributions for collages work clockwise from top left)

Shawls & Cowls

1. Sand Ripples Shawl by Stephannie Tallent

2. Chance Cove by Allison O’Mahony

3. Trailing Leaves Cowl by Sandra Nesbitt

4. Rugby Shawl by knottygnome crafts

5. Shh! Wrap by Jennifer Weissman

6. Majestic Shawl by Gabrielle Vézina

Feet & Hands

1. Leighton House Handwarmers by Ella Austin

2. Moving Forward by Tisserin Coquet

3. Card Game Mitts by Knitwise Design

4. Flower Garland - Blomsterkrans by Aud Bergo

5. Zippertooth Mitts by Clare Lakewood

6. Falling Petals Socks by Rachel Gibbs

Sweaters & Tops

1. Juniper by Ash Alberg

2. Mount Pleasant by Megan Nodecker

3. Wild Grass by Asja Janeczek

4. Valerian by Tonia Barry

5. Nest Pullover by Solène Le Roux

6. Winter Woods Pullover by Knitwise Design

Hats

1. Midterm Tam by Virginia Sattler-Reimer

2. Tracery by handmade by SMINÉ

3. Bramble Birds by Sara Huntington Burch

4. Taupe by AbbyeKnits

5. Great Ocean Road Beanie by Georgie Nicolson

6. CCC Hat by M K Nance

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Introducing STORYTIME

Opening the Book on the Storytime Collection

My mother was an elementary school librarian, so my childhood was filled with all sorts of children's literature modern and classic. The Storytime Collection draws it’s inspiration from some of my favorite pieces of classic children's literature and might include some of your favorites too! 

The collection, which includes a sweater, gloves, two embroidery designs and a sewing pattern, is available as kits, pattern bundles and stand-alone patterns and has projects suitable for beginners to more advanced makers.

Goldenbook Cardigan

The Saggy Baggy Elephant, Tawny Scrawny Lion, Poky Little Puppy – since the first Little Golden Book was released in 1942, these titles and many more have become classics read by multiple generations.

Inspired by the iconic spine of Little Golden Books, a long band of colorwork forms a statement collar on an open-front cardigan. Knit from the top-down, the pattern uses the contiguous method to form a well-fitting one-piece yoke and is finished with clean folded hems and deep pockets. The pattern is available in bust sizes up to 56.5"/143.5 cm and includes helpful fit tips throughout the pattern to get the best fit for your body. 

Can be purchased as bundle with the Turning Leaf Gloves.

Turning Leaf Gloves

In the early days of publishing, a sheet of paper with printing on both pages/sides was commonly referred to as a leaf - a less popular usage now, but one that lives on in phrases like “to turn a new leaf, ”loose-leaf” paper, and the French word feuille. The Turning Leaf gloves were inspired by the gilded leaves of hefty leather-covered tomes (be they the Bible or The Wonderful Land of Oz), this inspiration reflected in graceful pleats that shape the hands of these vintage-style gloves.

Gloves are worked from the cuff to the fingers. The cuff is worked flat, with the hand and fingers worked in the round.

Can be purchased as bundle with the Goldenbook Cardigan.

Little Readers Embroidery & Ms. Marian Pillow

Is there anything better than cozying up with a good book?

The Little Readers are vintage-inspired designs that use a single color to create a strong outline, a technique known as redwork (or bluework, depending on the color). The paired-down design is a great introductory project for beginning embroiderers and would make a wonderful gift for the book-lover in your life.

Named for The Music Man’s Marian The Librarian, the Ms. Marian Pillow turns your hoop art into cozy and beautiful home decor. Mitered corners and a checkerboard band increase the elegance of the design, which is suitable for intermediate sewists.

Instructions are included for a standard envelope pillowcase and a tote-able reading pillow with book pocket. The sewing pattern includes template/pattern for both Boy and Girl Little Reader embroideries and is a perfect companion to any of my 6” hoop designs or kits. Not into embroidery? Use the center panel to display an 7” square quilt block or panel of a favorite fabric.

The Ms. Marian Pillow Kit provides you with all the materials (minus pillowform) to make one beautifully embroidered, library-themed pillowcase. You can choose to sew it up as a standard envelope-back pillow, or (my favorite) as a tote-able reading pillow with book pocket.

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FO Roundup - Into Fall 2018

One of the most fun parts of being a designer is seeing how others interpret your designs.

We’re in October already, leaves are starting to change color, which means we are entering peak knitwear season! Instead of the most recent FOs this go round, I thought I’d share some of my favorite of your autumnal knits.

Click on any image to visit the maker's Instagram or Ravelry page!

I LOVE seeing your makes! Tag me @mscleaver on Instagram, or if it's on Ravelry, I'll see it. :) 

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Leading Bird Shawl by Mindful Folk in her own yarn!

Cormac by Fullosheep (pattern available via Interweave)

Marketa Mitts by Irr-Saukh (pattern available via Interweave)

Hemingway (Men's) by karencampandknit (pattern available via Twist Collective).

Madalynn by Wolfcreeker

Breakwater by Kahlefam

A Two-Color Dolan Beret knit by Frances 75

Honeymaker by Shortrounds

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Want to make one of your own? Grab the patterns below!

Honeymaker - PDF Pattern

$6.00

Leading Bird - PDF Pattern

$6.00

Dolan Beret - PDF Pattern

$5.00

Madalynn – PDF Pattern

$5.00

Breakwater Pullover - PDF Pattern

$8.00

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STORYTIME - Coming Soon!

If I’ve been quiet around here, it’s because I’ve been busy! Busy with work. Busy with transitioning Little Miss Cleaver into Kindergarten and busy with pulling together the pieces of my next collection - STORYTIME.

STORYTIME is inspired by some of my favorite classic children’s books, including Little Golden Books and The Wizard of OZ series. The collection will include two new knitting patterns (one adult sweater, one accessory), two new embroidery patterns/kits and a sewing pattern/kit perfect for spotlighting your favorite embroidery.

After a lot of time sketching and developing ideas, I’m finishing up samples and getting patterns written and reviewed. There’s still a lot of work left to to (it’s a lot to pull together for one person!), but I expect to release the collection in October.

Until then, you can follow my progress on Instagram and if you sign up for the newsletter, you’ll get to know about the collection release early with a special subscriber-only discount!

Back to stitching for me!

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Got Moxie?

While browsing at my local yarn shop earlier this year, I came upon three colors of Juniper Moon Farm's Zooey piled together in a cubby and thought- what perfect New England colors for summer! When I got it home and placed my purchase next to some Moxie packaging, I realized that it was the perfect Maine summer colors. And so, inspired by the colors of Moxie soda, the official soft drink of Maine, the Moxie shawl is the perfect knit to both make and wear at the beach – whether your beach is in Maine or lands beyond.

Moxie is a traditional top-down triangle shawl that uses a mosaic knitting technique for the colorwork bands. Mosaic knitting creates patterns by using slipped stitches that pull up a strand of color from the row below,  which means you're only dealing with one color in each row and getting a graphic "pop" with little complication. Worked in garter stitch, the shawl is a quick and cozy knit. 

The Moxie pattern can be found in GRAIN - the current issue of Taproot Magazine, available via subscription, their online shop, and at a variety of bookstores and stockists. 

A very special thanks to my testers and to Aimee Chapman for some short-notice modeling! 

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